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Drawing Tips: Materials
I guess there's just one
thing to say about materials: buy the best quality you can afford.
Sometimes I don't take my own advice and I learn to regret it. As
your skills improve, you'll be glad you chose to invest in a better quality
product instead of buying lots of cheap stuff. If your parents are
buying your art supplies, insist on getting good quality supplies - write
them a list if you have to. Non-artist parents tend to assume that
cheap is fine for beginners - educate them, and you will receive Christmas
and birthday presents you can actually use. :-)
Paper:
Whatever you do, don't buy
nasty cheap paper! Some people rebel against the idea of paying $10
for a sketchpad. A $3 sketchpad may seem like a good deal, but when
your drawings won't erase well, or smudge excessively, or the paper doesn't
have a good texture to hold delicate shading, or bleeds when you use ink,
you'll discover that saving the money isn't worth the frustration and the
loss of quality to your artwork. When you finally get a sketch the
way you want it to look, you want to be sure that it's on good paper.
I think it's especially important for beginners to use good paper because,
let's face it, you need all the help you can get!
I use Strathmore sketch pads
(which are available with recycled papers), which have 100 sheets of 60
lb paper and run from about $9 for a 9x12 pad to $17 for a 14x17 pad (prices
from my local art store). That's roughly 10 - 20 cents per page.
The paper is good enough for finished drawings, though lately I have been
working with Strathmore drawing paper for finished drawings, which is 80
lb paper (heavier is better - check out the weight of the paper on sketchpads
before you buy). Drawing paper runs from about $5 for a 9x12 pad
to $10 for a 14x17 pad, with 24 sheets. It's twice as expensive,
20 - 40 cents per page, so I stick with the sketchpad until I have the
image I want. Generally, the heavier the paper is, the more
expensive it is.
Sketchbook paper:
60 lb; good for pencil,
colored pencil, dip pens and markers (though be careful - they will bleed
onto the bottom sheet). Comes bound with wire or paper (prefer wire
- paper bound tends to crack easily and pages will start falling out).
Drawing paper:
80 lb; good for finished
drawings, pencil, colored pencil, inks and markers. It is more forgiving
than sketchbook paper for graphite drawings - erases easier and cleaner.
Typically an ivory color. Comes as pad or as 18x24 single sheets.
Bristol:
100 lb; basically a very
heavyweight paper, good for pencil, colored pencil, inks, markers, and
also can be used for watercolor (it will buckle if lots of water is used).
Can be difficult to erase. Comes as pad or as 18x24 single sheets.
Watercolor paper:
140 lb; usually the textured
surface will discourage use for anything but watercolor, but good for mixed
media pieces. Many different types - experiment to find what you
prefer. Comes as pad or as 20x30 single sheets.
Illustration board:
similar to cardboard, but
with a smooth drawing surface; can handle just about anything from pencil
to acrylic and oil paintings if properly treated. Great for mixed
media pieces. Comes in 30x40 sheets.
Graphite
Pencils:
I use a mechanical pencil
for drawing, mostly because I'm used to it. I would sneak mechanical
pencils from my dad when I was 12 to draw with, and I've used them ever
since. They don't need to be sharpened (which is what I like), they
don't get that nasty dry, hard eraser like ordinary pencils, some of them
have very narrow erasers that are great when you just want to erase small
areas, and they are convenient and neater than ordinary pencils.
A down side, however, is that you can't get them in different softnesses
and they do have a limited value range (which I have discovered).
So, also have some drawing pencils on hand for additional shading.
I'd suggest a hard pencil, like a 2h or 3h, a medium pencil, like a hb,
and a soft pencil, like a 2b or 3b. If you use wood pencils, make
sure you have a good sharpener.
I recently bought a set of
Derwent graphic/sketching pencils and I am very happy with them.
If you're wondering if the brand of pencil makes a difference, it does.
Like most other art supplies, buy the best you can afford.
If you are going to be doing
finished drawings with lots of shading, it is good idea to get some fixative
to prevent smearing.
Erasers:
If you use pencils, you
gotta have a good eraser. If you don't know about kneaded rubber
erasers, I suggest you march yourself to the closest art store and get
one as soon as possible. Kneaded rubber erasers come as a small,
grey rectangle, but once you start playing with them they become pliable,
and rather like a lump of silly putty. You can shape them to fit
the area you are erasing, and you can simply press them over a area to
lighten it, instead of erasing it entirely. They also don't leave
those nasty eraser shreds on your paper. They are wonderful for erasing
graphite smudges that occur when you're working on a drawing. They
kick ass. I prefer the Design 2 brand, myself. Just make sure
you keep them off the floor. They can collect hair and dirt, and
they are a pain to get out of the carpet once they have been stepped on.
Some people swear by those
plastic clickable erasers that can be refilled. I haven't used them
personally, but I can see how they would be neat.
A white vinyl eraser is nice
to have for erasing large areas very cleanly.
Pen
and Ink:
When I first started inking
I used micron pigma pens. They are $3 - $4 apiece, and they come
in lots of different widths, from .005 to .5. They are very portable
and convenient, and they give good results. The nibs of the pens
are fairly delicate, and once they wear down the lines can be difficult
to control. They also seem to run out of ink fairly quickly, and
they are expensive to replace often.
I have switched to dip pens,
which I prefer. Dip pens aren't nearly as convenient as the micron
pigma pens. You need to have a fairly stable workspace, with fresh
water, paper towels, scratch paper, and no one to bump you. However,
for $12 you can get a set of nibs, nib holders, and a bottle of ink that
will easily last you many, many drawings. Dip pens will give you
a more natural, responsive line. Different nibs will give a varying
line width and respond differently to pressure. Once you find a favorite
nib or two, you won't want to go back to the stiff, unnatural micron pens.
I suggest the drawing and sketching package by Speedball - it gives you
2 nib holders and 6-8 different nibs to try, all for about $8. Remember
to clean your nibs after each use, and don't leave them in water - they
rust. Be prepared to replace nibs every once in a while for $1 or
so.
Another reason to use dip
pens is the choice of ink available. There is calligraphy ink, waterproof
ink, india ink, metallic inks and a huge spectrum of colored inks available,
just to name a few. Whatever ink you use, make sure it is colorfast.
A bottle of white ink is handy for covering up mistakes. You can
get a bottle of ink for $3 - $4, enough for many, many drawings.
Dip pens are messy.
Ink can get spilled. Pets and ink are a bad combination. Ink
and carpet is a bad combination. Make sure that you eliminate any
spilling risks before you start.
A selection of fine brushes
is also useful for inking, especially for going over large areas.
Try inking over a finished pencil piece, or just ink alone. Use it
as a base for colored work. The possibilities are endless.
Waterproof ink:
Be sure the bottle says
waterproof. Once you let this dry you can use watercolor, colored
inks or markers to color it without having the black ink leak all over
the place. There usually is still a little bit of leakage, especially
with markers, but not enough to be really noticeable. Be careful
not to get this on your clothes, 'cause it will leave a grey stain even
if you wash the ink out promptly.
Colored inks:
Using brown ink or some
other color for linework underneath watercolor is actually a pretty good
idea. Pick a neutral color, or one that will blend with the color
next to it. The effect is less stark than using black ink and more
natural. Be sure to spray the ink with fixative before applying watercolor
or ink, because most colored inks are not waterproof and will get muddled.
Inking
by Max Bertuzzi from FARP
Sharp
Inking and Effects by Alejandro Perez Muqoz from FARP
Markers:
If you want good markers,
go with Prismacolors. They are simply the best. They are also
expensive. :-( If you want to try them out, try getting a selection
of cool greys to play with. They are available singly, or in sets.
Either way, be prepared to pay about $3 apiece. The cool grey set
that I love is about $36. I've found that if you want a set of colors,
try an office supply store like Office Depot or Office Max. Their
prices are sometimes lower than art stores.
The markers can bleed through
sketchbook paper, so make sure you have blank paper underneath the drawing
you are coloring.
Colored
Pencils:
I got the 120 color set
of Prismacolor pencils for a birthday a while ago, and I have yet to do
anything decent with them. Very sad. I know people can do wonderful
things with Prismacolor pencils, but I have yet to turn out anything.
:-( Probably because I haven't been practicing with them. I
prefer a harder lead pencil, like Verithin, because my style is cross-hatched
based and I like to layer lots of colors. Prismacolors are a bit
frustrating for me to work with.
Getting
Started with Colored Pencil by Tiffany L. Gray from FARP
Colored
Pencil Techniques by Tiffany L. Gray from FARP
Brushes:
Buy a few good brushes rather
than a handful of cheap ones. You will have better control over your
brushstrokes and you won't be as likely to put color where you don't want
it. Windsor Newton makes some great brushes. The University
line (red handles with white fibers) is priced for the student, but lasts
a long time. I, err, "borrowed" a University brush from my art class,
still have it 6 years later and use it often. If you take care of
them they will last you quite a while. Don't leave brushes standing
in water - the tips will bend. Clean them with a little soapy water
in the palm of your hand every once in a while. Don't let paint dry
on them. Don't let your little sister steal them and use them for
fabric paints. Frankly, speaking from experience, don't let anyone
besides you touch them because they will probably ruin them.
Oddly enough, it's not necessary
to buy dinky fine brushes for detail if you have good regular brushes.
I prefer to use my #2 round for detail rather than some much smaller cheap-o
brushes I have, because the #2 has a much better tip.
Watercolors:
Again, my experience with
this media is limited. For some artists, the price of watercolor
paper is a bit of a deterrent (it was for me for a while). Using
watercolor on regular paper is a bad idea. Bristol is a cheaper alternative,
though it isn't as nice as watercolor paper and you have to be careful
not to saturate the paper - good for ink/watercolor combinations, though.
The watercolors themselves
can be fairly inexpensive - you're likely to spend more on brushes.
Sets can run from $5 up to $20 or more. Don't buy the cheap school
brand - you probably won't be happy with the results. Watercolors
can come in a liquid or a cake format. I haven't used the liquids,
but one of the nice things about watercolors is even if you leave some
of the liquid color out and it completely dries, it is still usable if
you add a little water. Try to find a set with a good bright red
- most of the watercolor reds are really dark pink masquerading as red
and you'll have to mix colors (adding brown helps) to get a good true red.
Get good brushes. Nothing
is more frustrating than trying to use watercolor with bad brushes.
A plastic palette is a good
thing to have, since you can't mix watercolors on a paper palate.
And DO mix colors! If you use them straight from the cake or tube,
you are missing all the great nuances of color you can only get through
mixing. Have an extra piece of paper ready to test colors before
you put them on your painting. Try to stay away from using black
when mixing. Use brown, blue or purple to darken.
Watercolor
Technique by Dmitry Terner from FARP
Acrylics:
I have just recently bought
some acrylic paints and all the paraphernalia to go with them, but as I
have yet to really get any experience with them I guess this section will
have to wait. Needless to say, they're a lot more expensive to work
with than any media I've tried so far, and that makes them difficult to
pick up for young artists who doesn't have $200 to spend on brushes, pallets,
canvases or illustration board, medium, gesso, etc.
Acrylic
Painting by Stephanie Pui-Mun Law from FARP
If you have any comments/questions, feel free to visit the message board.
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